Benaras! The city established by Mahadev himself, inhabited continuously since time immemorial has a vibe of its own.
Religious I am not but spiritual I am.
Not till a few months ago, did I yearn to visit Benaras. Everywhere I looked I saw pictures, reels, posts and books spouting the eternal beauty of this ancient city. Time flew! The yearning increased!
Finally I landed in the city. It felt familiar, probably all the pictures and videos had already acquainted me. The cool weather was a pleasant welcome. We began with the protocol visit to ‘Kashi Ke Kotwal’ the Bhairavnath temple. The walk through the narrow lanes that have witnessed passing of not just centuries but yugas, liberally dotted with temples of all sizes from small to tiny to minuscule, welcomed devotees and strays alike.
Our hearts sought the golden spires of the Kashi Vishwanath temple like the deer seeking musk. After a short walk, wading through crowds responding to a similar yearning, we were finally inside the holy precincts. ‘Shayan Aarti’ was going on and the devotees lifted their voices in bhakti to their beloved Mahadev. The moon peeped down approvingly, that cool night, watching the people with their vibrant energy, singing as one.
Early morning visits to the ghats is surreal. The sky is dark patiently waiting the arrival of sunrise like a wife waiting for her spouse. The moon and constellations dot the horizon, which none have time to admire. A flurry of activities in preparation for the Ganga aarti, a spectacle to admire, as the young men perform in synchronicity is an apt beginning. Collecting the positive vibes, one moves on to a boat to be enveloped in the bosom of Ma Ganga, watching the sunrise painting the sky in pink, mauve and glints of gold. Birds fly along expecting morsels of food. They skim, surf, dive, swoop and call endlessly. It’s like a private ballet show, while the breeze tugs at our hair, and clothes, smiles occupy our faces. The view of Kashi from the boat is incomparable.
Breakfast at Benaras is probably the best. Hot Kachodis with fresh aloo ki sabzi and crispy, sweet, sinfully delecious jalebis at every corner, every lane and also at a hundred and one famous eateries. So filling, you are good- till you dig into the world’s most delicious chaat, available pretty much everywhere. Though, some places are so well known, they are on everyone’s itinerary.
The city of Mahadev and ghats has countless temples, dedicated to various deities but predominantly to Shiva. I also saw my personal favourites Hanumanji and Ganesha all over. The rhythm of life is propped up with melodious music and dance, with many well known proponents who claim Benaras as their home. An entire lane boasts the presence of at least twenty Padma awardees’, from various generations, names known as pillars of music, dance, and literature.
Visiting some ancient temples, still standing tall and thriving in the hustle and bustle, in the narrow lanes that twist along, fills one’s heart. Soaking in the vibes while sitting quietly at the ghats may at times make you the subject of some art student, capturing the moment for eternity.
No where is death welcomed.
But Kashi, is where Death is celebrated. Dying naturally in Kashi it is said, grants you Moksha. People come here seeking to be united with Mahadev, in his Vishwanath form. The city which rests on His Trishul, His trident, has more bodies being carried to the ghats specially Manikarnika and Harishchandra than any other. Nowhere but in Kashi we see the flames burning continuously through the day and night. A reminder, that our lives are moving forward to that one eternal truth, that is Death. And hopefully Moksha!
I need to delve on the people of Kashi, else this story about Kashi will be missing an important beat in the rhythm of its life. Spiritual they definitely must be, but kind and welcoming too. The residents of Benaras are in no hurry to pocket your money, trusting that no one will deny them their rightful earnings. A fresh, piping hot breakfast made in desi-ghee, costs you as much as a rickshaw ride of five hundred metres. Our boat ride was over, the samosa and hot masala tea served and consumed, but the money we had yet to pay, as we literally caught the boat running, yet the boat man didn’t wrinkle his brow or cast a frown, till we came back to disembark.
Breath taking Benarasi sarees were shown with quiet patience, along with generous servings of tea, lassi, and samosa irrespective of how many sarees one bought.
The pulse of this city is unique! The vibe- indescribable! At least one visit is necessary to experience its rhythm, for it is real!
Note: This post is a part of ‘Real and Rhythm Blog Hop’ hosted by Manali Desai and Sukaina Majeed under #EveryConversationMatters.
I’ve had Benaras on my “places to visit next year” list since few years after reading this, I’m more determined than ever to go.
Glad you felt the vibe! I could not include all my experiences here. Hope you have an equally mesmerizing experience if not better.
What a beautifully written piece! You’ve captured Benaras with such vivid emotion that it feels like walking through those lanes and ghats alongside you. The spirituality, the food, the people, the aura — everything comes alive in your words. This isn’t just a travelogue; it’s an experience. Absolutely loved the imagery and the soul of the city you’ve woven into every paragraph.
Thanks for stopping by Saadique! I felt I wasn’t able to share the soul touching experience I savoured, in totality. The city vibrates to a rhythm created by Mahadev Himself, I felt. Nothing loud or in the face, just a strong reassuring presence.
I’ve never been to Benaras but, of course, I’ve heard a lot about the place. Have read a few books set in the town. The way people talk about this place is something else.
It’s a lovely write-up.
That’s true Tarang! Everyone has a unique experience that they share. Thanks for stopping by. Hope you can enjoy your experience soon.
Picturesque description of the city of death. Loved reading this poetic piece. Temples, ghats, saris… something very evocative too, something deep yet evanescent, reminiscent of life and death at once. Wonderful.
This was such an nostalgic read for me because one of our retreats had been in Banaras in 2023. I loved what you said about Kashi being the place where death is celebrated. I witnessed that too while I was visiting.
Glad to share notes! I guess the only place in the world where people wish to breathe their last. A place where kings and queens have built palaces along the banks of the mighty Ganga, where Shiva has turned the flow of the river and where no one is in a hurry but for the tourists!
I visited Varanasi in 2023. My first and last time. Not a fan but it was a good experience. I enjoyed the blue lassi there the most. I don’t have the other things so skipped those. Oh yes and I bought a saree. Hoping to wear it soon!
So you have already been there. Glad you could do that! I have already used my duppata and looking forward to wearing my sarees!
I relived my Varanasi visit through your post. There’s something so special and calming there that it draws you like a moth to flame. We got the shayan aarti too and it was mesmerising. The food there is just awesome!
That’s lovely!
My nani visited and she had so many good memories. I wish to visit someday too.. Thank you for sharing your experience!
Good luck for your visit! Hope you enjoy it as much if not more!
Ah what a delightful ode to Kashi. I have been planning to go for a long time, but then I guess one needs to wait until Bholenath calls!
That’s true Harshita! You never know when the wheels set in motion!
I never had the desire to visit Kashi till a few years ago when I read a young friend’s post. And of course my search for the ancient temple of Kashi!
What a lovely, heartfelt piece! You brought Kashi alive—the golden spires, the calm chaos, the gentle kindness of its people. I could almost taste the kachodis and jalebis you described so deliciously. Your words carry the city’s ancient rhythm so naturally that it makes one want to book a ticket right away. A beautiful read!
I had never been to Kashi, although I had been planning to go for some time now. With this post, I felt as if I had visited the city.
Thanks Neerja! If you are planning it’s because you heard Mahadev’s call. It will surely happen soon and you shall enjoy in person. Good luck!
I have spent a lot of time in Banaras and I love the vibe of this city. It is a different world and I miss the boat rides and the chaat. Your piece made me nostalgic.
Lucky you Malvika! I can only imagine your nostalgia!
I actually had the same vision of Banaras, until I visited it twice. I did find the Ganga Aarti fascinating, but the Subah-e-Banaras was even more interesting. However, I didn’t get to see a lot of old Banaras, which I would like to do. Yet, the crowds there do baffle me. I find the early morning slightly better to navigate.
We did participate in the Subah-e- Banaras, lighting the lamps for the aarti. The city is ancient and the vibes are ethereal. Good to know about your experience. Thanks for stopping by!
Though I haven’t visited Banaras yet, I did get a chance to visit Maheshwar during our trip to Omkareshwar. They call it the “Banaras of Bollywood,” and if this beautiful, almost-Banaras experience in Maheshwar could mesmerize me so completely, I can only imagine how enchanting the real Banaras must be. After reading about your experience, I have no doubt—it would be absolutely worth visiting.
Thanks Neha!‘Banaras of Bolywood’ sounds interesting. Go to the real one, for a soul stirring experience.
I don’t know how to explain in words, but I feel a strange kind of connection with the city of light. I have never visited Benaras but while watching the documentaries or videos, I feel I have been there and I know this city for ages. I love every bit of it. Thanks for sharing such a beautiful piece with us. Enjoyed reading it.
So, you already have a deep connection. Thanks for stopping by and your kind words.
Thank you for this beautiful journey of Benaras through your words. It seems like a beautiful place.
Thanks Zenobia! Glad you enjoyed reading it! Maybe one day you will visit to see the architecture, shop for sarees and enjoy the street food.
Your post is so well narrated that I want to visit Banaras as soon as it is possible. I have heard a lot about it too. I loved how you have touched upon so many aspects of the city.
Thanks Chinmayee! I’m sure you will enjoy being there in person as much if not more.
What a picturesque ode to the ancient city of Benaras! Your words have brought the city alive through your senses – the sights, the rites, the delicious food 😋😋, the timelessness, the narrow streets, the presence of Lord Shiva everywhere and the celebration of death! I read a wonderful book by Mona Verma titled Benares. This post brought back memories of that.
I was a kid when I visited Benaras. I remember a few good things, and this made me travel back to those days.
I’m sure we will hear eloquent observations when you visit now! Thanks for stopping by!
I just returned from the holy city 2 days back and U could totally relate with each and every word. Benaras seem to have its own time wheel with an old world charm and spiritual vibe. I have visited the place ywice snd every time i feel i am experiencing the city for the first time. I felt i was experiencing the city again through your beautiful poetic descriptions.
Thanks for your kind words Pinki!
Lucky you to have visited Benaras more than once!
I have only seen Banaras in movies and travel vlogs. The food there is the best they say. And Sarees, they don’t even require recommendations. Beautifully written Anamika, adding Banaras to my to be visited list. ❤️
You took me down a memory lane and reminded me of my own visit to this beautiful, spiritual city
Beautiful travelogue capturing the intense, spiritual energy and unique rhythm of Benaras, from mesmerising early morning Ganga Aarti to comforting taste of hot kachodis. Definitely making this in my next travel list.
Thank you! I’m glad you enjoyed it!
Your description makes me want to go to Benares, but Mahadev has to call. Beautifully written without missing any important experiences, including food, hospitality, and the people. Made me feel like I’m in Benares.
That’s true! If you truly desire, it will happen soon!
Splendid description of Benaras! I have never been there, but your picturesque words have painted it all for me! What a great read! Thanks for sharing!
Thank you! Hope you enjoy a trip there soon!
I relived my Varanasi visit through your post. There’s something so special and calming there that it draws you like a moth to flame. We got the shayan aarti too and it was mesmerising. The food there is just awesome!
Your post has taken me to a place where I have never been to. You have wonderfully captured the essence of the city with your words.
Reading your post has taken me straight to Banaras, a place I have never been to. Thank you
some places become special for us after jus one trip to that place.I remember enjoying Benaras chaat of various kinds on my solo trip there once upon a time.